Introducing the Shohin-bonsai summer workshops and demos with Morten Albek

This year I introduce some new workshops dedicated to shohin enthusiasts. First event is a summer shohin workshop at the studio, dealing with leaf pruning techniques specially of interest for shohin bonsai, dealing with flowering species and some display exercises. On top of that a workshop follows were students can get help and instructions with own material brought along. All in all a packed day of informations.

Sunday August 19, 10 – 16.
Place: Albek Bonsai Studio, Freltoftevej 43, 5792 Aarslev, Denmark.

Admission fee: 100,- Dkr.

Workshop – demonstration. Starts at 10.

Demo with Morten Albek – shohin-bonsai leaf pruning techniques, pruning flowering shohin, display set up i.e. Followed by workshop – please bring shohin bonsai and tools, your own food i.e. Coffee and tea available at low prizes.

Please inform your participation in advance, and no later than August 18th. Limited space, so please book early.

Use e-mail for your questions and/or booking

albekbonsai(a)gmail.com

Regards, Morten Albek

www.albek-bonsai.com

In English: www.albek-bonsai.com/ENGLISH/index.htm

Shohin bonsai may dry out faster than other bonsai because they simply have a very limited amount of soil. This small amount of soil will dry out because the tree uses water to cool down by leaf transpiration at hot days, and it will dry out because the surface may be large compared to pot depth at some trees too.

The soil structure of course also influence on the ability to keep a moist soil, were a well draining soil needs to be watered much more often to keep a fair amount of humidity throughout the day. The health of the tree is therefore relying on the factors of the weather, the soil structure, the depth of the pot, and the volume of the leaf mass transpiring water taken up by the roots.

Keeping trees healthy demands some considerations depending on the area where you grow your bonsai. Right now the summer is in front of us here in Denmark in Northern Europe. Already we have had a very warm period of sunny weather, demanding especially taken care of the smaller trees in the shohin collection. The water needing trees like Chinese Elm and Japanese maples e.g. needs to be kept from drying out totally. Conifers needs to slightly dry out between watering, so different tasks for different types of trees. A White Pine who prefers dryer conditions will be place at a more airy spot without avoiding humid surroundings.  By the way, it is worthy to notice that trees needing strong growth in general needs a strong draining soil, and needs more attention to avoid drying out too much on hot days, because it is a delicate balance not to harm the tree one way or the other. Moister soil structures holds back growth but also may harm a tree during rainy periods. One type of soil being right for one type of growth, can be harmful in other conditions than purposed. The solution is simple though. It is mostly a matter of watering correctly depending of the weather and the needs of the trees.

But the theme now is the heat, and therefore I have arranged some simple trays of clay were some trees are placed during these warm sunny days, having a small water basin beneath the bonsai pot . A few of these trees have had new moss surface decoration applied recently because they are been made ready for exhibition next weekend. The humidity trays will help keeping a moister climate just around the pot and tree, helping the moss kept green for this purpose. The water tray will help keeping a higher air humidity just around the tree, and depending on how high the tree is raised from the water surface the humidity will help the tree kept more healthy. Small effects but of value.

In a rainy period the tray is either removed or wood sticks are levelled higher to avoid water contact with the pot.

The printed magazine features four pages for me, and one page each for my fellow bonsai artists. A total of six pages promoting western bonsai art in Hong Kong isn’t that bad.

The article with me is also available on-line at http://www.trendson.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3409:art-talk-apr2012a-1&catid=52:art-culture-features&Itemid=132

Below one original photo of a Shohin Japanese maple, and how it is set up in the magazine.

Accent plants for bonsai, or standing alone? One way or the other, the beauty of Shitakusa is not arguable. In a short time the Magical Bonsai Accents show is held in the UK, and I am pretty sure it will be amazing. Read more at http://magicalbonsaiaccents.wordpress.com/about/

Here one of my own to enjoy. Planted on a rock from Wales I received as a gift from highly respected bonsai artist Terry Foster.

Saxifraga juniperifolia

Just spend some good hours at my studio with customers. To celebrate late Saburo Kato at the International day of bonsai I arranged bonsai and accent swapping/selling and workshop that day. We were fortunate to receive some sun and even a bit of spring warmth from above, and a pleasant day were in reach. Lots of good bonsai talks and dedicated work at trees. The pictures tell it. Please enjoy.

A very kind gesture has been made from Hungarian shohin `Mafia´ member Bálint Tirpák. So he made his own pot for me, and it arrived today as gesture of gratitude for inspiration through this blog and websites throughout the years. Nicely wrapped in a box and clothing, the pot inside is a modern styled shohin pot with Japanese styled patterns, and it has its own unique expression which I like very much. There are more pots at their website (link further down this article). A pot in my collection that also will be treasured because it was given as a sign of the friendships that are passed on through bonsai. Thank you, and I owe you a beer at least .-)

You may be wondering why I wrote Mafia at the top, but the explanation is simple. Budapest resident and shohin lover Bálint Tirpák and frinds have their own little shohin Mafia study group, and you can see more of them and their work at their blog  – just use a translating web tool to read it if you, like me, are not so good in the Hungarian language

The blog you find here: http://www.shohinmaffia.blogspot.com/

This is spring. Every day a little new development and flowers that opens suddenly. Every day is a joy.

Read it at: http://www.bonsaiempire.com/advanced/photographing-bonsai

The technique shown in the pictures here and below, is usable for younger trees started as seedlings or cuttings. To develop a good nebari (surface roots) and trunk thickening at deciduous trees like Japanese maples or as shown here, European Beech (Facus sylvatica), a simple technique can be used.

The trick is to let the roots grow over an item, stopping them from growing directly downwards. this will enhance the root spread and lower trunk thickening. In this example a young piece of European Beech is used. A plastic screw cap from a bottle is used. It is fixed underneed the  trunk, forcing roots to spread equally outwards. The growth outwards will enhance the root growth and trunk thickening at once, if correct pruning of the tree is done at the same time. This is dome by pruning back the trunk when in good growth, allowing a low placed branch grow freely for some seasons until the desired trunk thickness is achieved. The trunk will thicken below the strong growing branch, so be sure this is positioned low enough to secure a good tapering of the trunk upwards.

The plastic cap will be overgrown by the trunk and roots when time passes and will do no harm, so just let is stay.

First the tree is potted in a shallow pot, to force the strongest roots to grow downwards when they reach the pot. These will weaken then at this point, letting weaker inner roots grow and equalize the strength, forming a better root base. Later, after one or two years depending on development and growing speed, a wider flatter pot will be selected, so enhance the development further.

See the step-by-step photo guide below, and try it out at home After a few years the base for a good shohin is achieved with a little luck.

The spring started very mild and a lovely period of warm weather have been present for some weeks. Now it has changed to the somewhat cooler weather for a period, before it again changes to warmer temperatures. These large shifts in temperatures, even with a few freezing nights around, demands careful moving of trees in and out of shelter to protect from cold nights.

I newer let my trees stay too long in the garage or greenhouse, because I think they are better off being hardened and developing their new leaves in open air. Having them bursting new leafs under roof in a garage or greenhouse develops elongated and fragile leafs, so I always bring out the trees early in spring.

I have to protect some specimens though already folding out leafs, or flowering specimens to avoid damage of this fragile growth. Some moving in and out the protected storage room is demanded these days, but soon real spring is here evident on the pictures showing new growth for the coming season.